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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Surprise Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their modest place achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary triumph.